Vogue 8815: The Muslin

I'm taking an online class on fitting with Craftsy and the sample pattern is Vogue 8815.  It's a peplum top that I probably wouldn't make if it weren't for the class. 

Vogue 8815, View A
 

Depending on how this all goes, I'm thinking of using this pattern for a white eyelet top I'm planning to make for the spring/summer.  I would underline the bodice with cotton batiste and perhaps leave the peplum unlined.

I made the muslin, using the methods from the class, including a full bust adjustment.  The bust adjustment added side darts.  Here's the front view:

It's not bad, but I'm having issues with the waist darts.  The armscye is too low in front, so I'll need to add on to that.  I made the usual adjustment for my sloping shoulders.

The back darts seem okay but I need to curve the back seam.  I knew I'd need to do that but I wanted to insert a zipper first to get an accurate look at the front fit.  I guess I'll take out the zipper now and curve that seam. 

I posted these photos to the class forum and asked for help with fitting the front, but I have yet to hear back.  In the meantime, I'm making a pair of flannel lounging pants for my lounging daughter. :)

"We must, we must, we must increase our bust"

Do you remember Judy Blume's Are You There God? It's Me Margaret?  I think every girl in our fifth grade class at some point chanted, "We must, we must, we must increase our bust."

Well, it worked!  Or maybe it was Mom's genes, childbearing, and Chicago pizza.  Either way, the standard B-cup on commercial patterns doesn't quite do it for me.  The Auction Dress requires a Full Bust Adjustment, or FBA.  My first!

I found this great tutorial at Lazy Stitching for doing an FBA for this kind of bodice.  Many steps later, I came up with this:

I took the difference between the pattern's center front and my center front (1 3/8") and used that to spread the width, then added an additional 1" under the bust.  Looks good on paper.

Alana reminds to add the same length to the back:

I pinned the two pieces together and tried it on and it looked okay but I've never had very good luck with trying on pattern pieces.  I need a muslin.

Next step: make the muslin.